Dress



H. J. PEARL Oct. 5, 1943.

3 nnnsi 7 Filed May 20, 1942 INVENTOR. 1 fi/vey r/THFAQL,

ATTOE/VEY.

Patented Oct. 5, 1943 "Henry J. PearL Los Angeles, 'Calif., assignor ofone-'l alf to Harvey L. Barker, Los 'Angeles,

Calif. I

Application Mayi20, 1942, SerialNo. 443 ,675

4 'Claims.

The invention relates to a dressiand particularly toan:arrangement'forsimplifyingtthe problem of raising :or lowering the waist :line of aone-piece dress 'or' uniform.

:With regard to :whethera one-piece dress is provided with a removablebelt or a set-in belt, generally speaking heretofore there have been'tWo methods-f forming'the-waist lineof a onepiece-dress; If theseparate belt is to be used,it is customary first to stitch the bottomof the blouse tothe top of the skirton'the wrong side, then to apply atop stitch on'the right side of the goods overthe first stitch. Usuallya finishing stitch such as an overcast is supplied to the edge of thegoods. To save material, the first stitch is applied quite nearthe endof the goods, and hence an'insufiicient margin isleft for lowering thewaist line. This has the i-urtherdefect that regardless of whether thewaist line'is'lowered the-very slightest amount possible or Whetherit israised-any suitable amount, it is necessary to remove the three stitchesbefore mentioned. This is objectionable from the standpoint of theretailer because the one-piece dress or uniform sells for acomparatively low price and .the cost of changing the waistline adds avery large percentage to the cost of the dress. It is objection-- ablefrom the standpoint of the consumer for the reason that it involves'asubstantial amount of work to remove three stitchings before .making thealterations, and even so, only a negligible amount of lengthening isusually possible.

Similar objections apply to the customary'onepiece'dressoruniformhavinga set-in'belt. Here- 'tofore this belt has been made in twopieces, namely,-a front and a back. The back .part of the belt isstitched at its top to thebottomof the blouse and at its bottom to thetop .of theskirt. Then the outer half .of-the'belt is stitched to theblouse and skirt over .the two first stitchings. This has thedisadvantage thatitisnotpossible to lengthen the waist line. rAlso, ifit isdesired to shorten the waist line, it is necessary to rip the twoseams which hold the. top of the front and back halves of the belt tothe bottom of the blouse.

The demand for an accurately fitting waist line is so great that theretailer frequently requires the dress manufacturer 'to furnish suchdresses 'in sizes which vary -by-one-half size.

--An object of the invention-is to=overcome the aboveobjectionsandprovide a one-piecedress or uniform having a waist line which-can beeither rai'se'd -'0r lowered with aa comparatively broken away 'on-aline parallel to line 8-8 .small amount .of :work, whereby thewaist-line may be readily raisedror lowered, more in certain places'thanothers if desired, and whereby it is unnecessary .to supply "the.retailer with dresses in one-:half 'size.

For further. details of the invention, reference maybe made toitheedrawing wherein Fig.1 is a view :in elevation ofaa one-piece dressor uniform having a set+inbelt according to the present invention.

Fig. 12 is an :enlarged sectional view top line 2- 2 of Fig. 1looking'in the directionof-"the arrows, with parts'broken'away, andshowing the normal position of the stitching of the top of-the :beltandthebottom of 'theblouse asthe goods are oiferedfor sale by the retailer.

"Fig.3 is a View corresponding to .Fig. .2 with thewaist lineraised,after removing the stitching at thetop of the-belt in FigHZandrestitching as indicated in Fig. 3. 1

Fig. '4 is a view-corresponding to 2 with the waist line lowered afterremoving the stitchingin FigJ2 and restitchingas indicated in thisfigure. I

Fig.5 is 'a front-elevational View, with'part of the skirt broken.awaymfthe invention-as applied to a one-piece dress or uniform having aseparate belt.

Fig. 6 is an'enlarged'sectional view, with-parts in Fig. '5 throughoneof the beltloops.

Fig. '7 is a sectional viewcorrespondi-ng'toFig. 6, with the floatingloop in ajraised position for a'waist'line higher than the 'seamshown.This loop can similarly be lowered to position the beltbelow thepositionshown in Fig. *6.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged sectional view with parts broke'n'away on line8-8-ofFig.'5 looking-in the direction of the arrows; andillustratingthe'mannor of securingthe blouse and skirtat thewaist lineas it is 'sold'to'the'customer.

Fig. 9 is a sectional Viewcorresponding'toFig. 8 with the skirtsewed totheblousebya second seamfto raise'thewaistline.

Fig.. I0'is atsectional view corresponding to "Fig. 8 with a second seam.appli'edbetween the first stitching and the end of the goods to lowerthe waistline.

Fig. 11 is asectional viewcorresponding to Fig. 10 illustrating therelative position of the parts after the first stitching has'beenremoved.

Referring in detailto th drawing, the dress I is here illustrated as aone-piece-uniformhaving an open front which may be secured closed bybuttons or the like 2. The dress I is provided-with 5 a belt 3 which isdifferent from prior constructions as illustrated in Figs. 2, 3 and 4,in that the belt is formed by taking a piece of goods which is the.length of the belt but double the width thereof and folding itlengthwise in the middle whereby this fold indicated at 4 is to form thetop of the belt. The top of the skirt 5 is stitched between the frontbelt portion 6 and the back belt portion 1 of the belt 3 as indicated at8 with the back I of the belt 3 facing the right side of the blouse 9.The top of the belt 3 adjacent the fold 4 is stitched to the blouse 9 asindicated at It, while leaving a substantial length, such as an inch anda half of the bottom of the blouse 9 as indicated at 9 projecting beyondthe stitching It) to make it possible to lower the waist line.

Fig. 2 illustrates the condition of the goods as sold to the customer,the stitching I being permanent enough to satisfactorily hold the blouse9 to the skirt 3. It is only necessaiy to remove this single stitchingI9 if it is desired to either raise or lower the waist line. In thiscase, the stitching I0 is first removed and then the belt 3 may beshifted up as indicated in Fig. 3 to raise the waist line, the top ofthe belt 3 being restitched to the blouse 9 as indicated at II, or afterstitching I0 is removed, the blouse 9 and skirt are relatively separatedand the top of the belt 3 is restitched lower on the blouse 9 asindicated at I2.

Figs. 5 to 11 illustrate the invention as applied to a one-piece dressor uniform I3 having a detachable belt H3 held at the waist line by asuitable number of loops I5, I55. Figs. 5, 6 and 8 illustrate thearrangement of the parts as the dress is sold to the customer, Fig. '7illustrating how the belt hi may be shifted up if the waist line ishigher than the seam I'l, while Figs. 9, 10 and 11 illustrate simplealterations which may be made by the retailer or the customer to eitherraise or lower the waist line,

Referring to Figs. 5 to 11, the bottom of the blouse I8 is secured tothe top of the skirt I9 by the single stitching I'l, this stitch beingmade on the wrong side of the goods, the stitching I! being applied atsuch a point as to leave an extended end I8 of the blouse I8, and anextended margin or end I9 of the skirt both projecting about the samelength and a substantial distance such as an inch and onehalf beyond thestitching I? in order to make it possible to lower the waist line, i.e., the line of stitching I1. As the stitching I! is made on the Wrongside of the goods, it will be apparent that the right side of the goodsfor the extensions I8 and I9 are in face-to-face relation. The loop I5is flexible and may be of the same cloth as the material of the dressI3. The loop I5 is a floating loo-p, its ends and 2! being broughttogether behind the horizontal center of belt I4 and held with thestitching I7. If the user does not care to go to the trouble of shiftingthe seam I! up or down, a certain adjustment of the waist line may beobtained by sliding the belt I4 upwardly as shown in Fig. '7, the bottomof the belt then approaching the seam I! as indicated. Similarly thebelt I4 may be shifted downwardly to lower the waist line, to bring thetop of the belt I4 adjacent the seam I1, and the parts would then appearsomewhat as indicated in Fig. 7 if it is turned upside down.

If it is desired to raise or lower the waist line which is substantiallythe line of scam I1, this may be done as illustrated in Figs. 8 to 11,which for convenience omit the loop I5. Fig. 8 as above statedillustrates the normal position of the seam I! when the dress is sold tothe customer. If it is desired to raise the position of scam I! to raisethe waist line, this may be readily done as indicated in Fig. 9 by firstleaving the stitching IT on the goods to hold the blouse I8 and theskirt I9 in their proper relative positions, and by applying a stitching22 above the stitching I1. Thereafter, the extensions I8 and I9, and thestitching I1 if desired may be cut off.

If it is desired to lower the waist line position of stitching I1, asindicated in Figs. 10 and 11, a second stitching 23 may be appliedbetween the stitching I! and the end of the extensions I8 and I9, whilethe stitching I1 remains in place to hold the blouse I8 and skirt IS intheir proper relative positions. Thereafter, the stitching I1 is removedand the stitching 23 then serves as the waist line stitching to hold theblouse I8 and skirt I9 together.

In case of waist line alteration as indicated in Figs. 3 and 4, and alsoin Figs. 9, 10 and 11, it will be apparent that the waist line may beraised or lowered more in the front or in the back as desired. Theprovision of the extension 9 in Fig. 2 and the provision of theextensions I8 and I9 in Fig. 8 make it possible to lower the waist line,and it may be raised or lowered with small inconvenience as thestitching ID in Fig. 2 and the stitching IT in Fig. 8 each comprise onlya single stitching which need to be removed. In fact, the stitching I1does not have to be removed if the waist line is raised as indicated inFig. 9, while it does need to be removed if the waist line is lowered asindicated in Fig. 11.

It will be apparent that various modifications may be made in theinvention without departing from the spirit of the following claims.

I claim:

1. A dress comprising a blouse and a lower garment, i. e., skirt orslacks, said lower garment terminating at its top in a one-piece set-inbelt with the back of the belt in a fold behind the front of the belt, afirst stitching securing the top of said lower garment between themargins of said fold, a second stitching, namely, only a singlestitching, securing the bottom of said blouse and said lower garment,said second stitching securing the top of said belt with the margin ofthe bottom of said blouse extending below said second stitching on thewrong side of said blouse and lower garment a distance sufiicient topermit the waist line to be lowered a substantial distance, whereby thewaist line may be raised or lowered and restitched on removal of saidsecond stitching.

2. A dress comprising a blouse and a lower garment, i. e., skirt orslacks, only a single stitching securing the bottom of said blouse andthe top of said lower garment at the waist line to form a one-piecedress, and the margin of the bottom of said blouse extending below saidstitching on the wrong side of said blouse and lower garment a distancesufiicient to permit the waist line to be lowered a substantialdistance, said lower garment terminating at its top in a one-piece setinbelt with the back of the belt in a fold behind the front of the belt,stitching securing the top of said lower garment between the margins ofsaid fold, and said single stitching securing the top of said belt abovethe bottom of said blouse with said belt and said blouse overlapped withthe back of said belt facing the right side of said blouse, whereby thewaist line may be raised or lowered and restitched on removal of saidsingle stitching. 7

3. A dress comprising a blouse and a lower garment, i. e., skirt orslacks, only a single stitching securing the bottom of said blouse andthe top of said lower garment at the waist line to form a one-piecedress, and the margin of the bottom' of said blouse extend'ing belowsaid stitching on thewrong side of said blouse and lower garment adistance suflicient to permit the waist line to be lowered a substantialdistance,

said single stitching permitting the waist line to be lowered with theremoval of only one waist line stitching, namely said stitching securingthe bottom of said blouse and, the top of said lower garment, and a beltloop having its ends secured in said single stitching and being flexibleto permit the belt position of said loop to be raised or lowered withrespect to said single stitching.

4. A dress comprising a blouse and a lower garment, i. e, skirt orslacks, said lower garment terminating at its top in a one-piece set-inbelt with the back of the belt in a fold behind the front of'the belt, afirst stitching securing the top of said lower garment between themargins raised or lowered and restricted on removal of said secondstitching, and a belt loop having its ends secured in said secondstitching and being flexible to permit the belt position of said loop tobe raised or lowered with respect to said second stitching.

HENRY J. PEARL.

